Creating a Whole House Interior Paint Color Palette

Paint, you’ve got a lot of options. There’s infinite colors (literally, did you know you can create custom colors at most major paint companies?). Then mix in all the different colors every paint company sells. Sherwin Williams and Behr and Benjamin Moore and the list goes on and on and on. They all sell their own named colors (hint: you can get most colors color matched by any of their competitors).

The current trend is open concept houses–even if your house isn’t open concept, using a cohesive color scheme will make it feel more open because your rooms will flow more naturally into them. I generally like my entire house (including bedrooms and bathrooms) to feed into a color scheme because I can easily shift decor around rooms. I touched on this in last week’s post about color theory (linked here), but I like to work in analogous and monochromatic whole-house color schemes because it makes it easy to have color consistency. Some people like to make their main living areas all cohesive and express themselves differently in bedrooms. Pick what works for you!

A Special Note

First and foremost, I always feel you should not let paint colors dictate materials you’re buying. If you’re replacing your floors, pick your floors first. Floors are far more permanent than paint colors. Same goes for tile, cabinets, backsplash, and on and on. That being said, if you are keeping your existing materials you need to factor those in to the color making decision. If you have travertine tiles, you need to find a color that works with travertine. I have bone/almond color bathroom fixtures in my hall bathroom, I needed to find colors that worked not just use my favorite white that would’ve made the fixtures look dingy (and yes, there’s 1,000 shades of white so my walls are still a creamy white but not a bright white). If you’re rolling your eyes at me differentiating creamy white from bright white, you haven’t stood in a paint aisle weighing out all the shades 😉

Why Create a Color Palette?

  • Easily intermix and change existing decor throughout your house (I’m a big fan of shopping your home, save money but feel like you’ve got a new space)
  • One palette means you can shop confidently knowing what goes and what does not — it also makes online shopping easier because you don’t have to be uncertain about if it’s the “right” shade to go with your 4,000 shades of green
  • Lastly… a cohesive color scheme will make your home feel cozy while still open concept (even if you’re just faking open concept! Yay open without knocking out walls).

Crafting a Color Palette

Ok so you want a color scheme, but where do you start? I have a few easy places to start to help you decide which color palette is a good fit for you.

Finding your Color Scheme

  • Scroll through Pinterest, look at your pins, look at the photos you’ve shared with friends as #goals… what are common colors you’re seeing throughout? Do you like bold colors everywhere? Light neutrals with pops of color? All neutrals everywhere?
  • Check out your wardrobe. You laugh, but a lot of the colors in my home are the same colors I enjoy wearing. Is your closet full of patterns? Are you only wearing neutrals, blues and greens like me 😉 I’m not saying to turn your favorite shirt into a pillow to throw on the sofa, but just factor in which colors fit your vibe.
  • Use color theory (seriously… if this concept means nothing to you, check out my blog post on it (linked here), it will change your interior decorating game. I live in an analogous cool tones color scheme (blues/greens/yellows) and monochromatic (single colors) with tons of neutral colors added in
  • Recognize the colors already in your home. Do your wood floors have an orange tone? You’ll be in warm color shades. Are your cabinets blue? Plan for cool shades. Remember what I said above about planning based on what’s already in your home and staying, yes I meant it.

Find your White Paint Color

I start with finding a white (or a couple) as my base because there are so many shades of white. You’ve got warm whites, cool whites, bright whites, dingy whites, and there’s hundreds of them in that list. I like Sherwin William’s Alabaster because it’s a nice neutral color. It pulls slightly warm, which means in some homes with minimal natural light or warm white lightbulbs can cause it to read yellow. I also like Sherwin William’s Pure White as a truly white color, it doesn’t pull warm or cool, it’s the perfect shade of white to match any color palette. I’ve used Alabaster in my bedrooms and bathrooms and Pure White on all my trim, doors, detailed woodwork, kitchen cabinets, and hallways.

Find your Colors

Start Monochromatic

For example, when painting our house I knew I wanted a blue/gray color that would add “warmth” to my home. I chose Sherwin William’s Morning Fog as my base color. I used this color throughout my living room, dining room, family room and kitchen. All these rooms are connected with open doorways and the use of the one color connects them all. I wanted my laundry room and powder room to “go” with all the Morning Fog, but I wanted something lighter. I stuck within the color family and chose Reflection, which is a paler blue. I could’ve gone with Olympus White, which is two shades directly below Morning Fog, but I moved one shade over from Olympus White to get a color that brought in a slight bit more warmth. But my easiest recommendation when finding a monochromatic shade, is to choose one shade and work with the other shades that immediately surround it. See an example:

This is one paint panel, made up of Sherwin Williams Pure White through Crushed Ice. All these colors coordinate and play nicely together. You can repeat this process with any color. Say you want to find 5 shades of white that work well together. Or 5 shades of green. You catch my drift.

Get Analogous With It 😉

So I started with Morning Fog and mixed in a lil’ Reflection (along with my Pure White in the main areas). When working on my hallway mudlocker/hot-mess drop-zone, I wanted to bring in another color, because I wanted the cabinetry to be it’s own standout detail in my otherwise white hallway — I went with green. I found a shade of green that has hints of blue and remains a cool shade, since all my other colors are also cool tones. I landed on Sherwin Williams Oyster Bay, and I honestly committed to it by holding the color chips together to see if it looked pretty (which I think it does 😉 ) Sometimes the best thing to do is play with the online color picker or grab chips at the store, bring them home, and create combinations until you find one you like. This is what the Morning Fog panel, Pure White/Alabaster panel, and Oyster Bay panels all look like together:

All these colors play well together, because I’m not trying to introduce too many variations of green/blue/whites. All the colors in the green panel are rooted in the same shade of green, same for the blues, and the whites. It means they work together and don’t compete.

If you are going to add analogous colors into your monochromatic scheme, I recommend following my above suggestion of picking one color and using the shades that color surround that color. Otherwise you’re working in a LOT of tones to play with.

So You Want an Accent Wall?

I have 4 easy tips for picking an accent wall:

  1. Use the lightest shade from your monochromatic scheme
  2. Use the darkest shade from your monochromatic scheme
  3. For a light, neutral color room… use a dark, heavily saturated color (example: Sherwin Williams Crushed Ice paired with Sherwin Williams Tricorn Black as your accent)
  4. Pick a color that is complementary or split complementary to your base wall colors, aka opposite it on the color wheel (like red/green or green/purple/yellow). It’ll be visually pleasing and provide maximum contrast. This is the riskiest IMO because you’re introducing the most colors, but sometimes the riskiest gives you the biggest wow-factor.

Summary

Creating a whole house color scheme will create continuity through your home, allow you to make decor decisions confidently because you know what goes with which colors, and will give your house a more open concept feel. Rooms will flow more seamlessly together which will create harmony and balance. I recommend following a monochromatic/analogous color palette because you aren’t introducing too many colors. I also like mixing in a lot of neutral colors to help balance out colors.

At the end of the day you pick the scheme that works the best for you, that’s what makes your house feel like a home. Again, I would strongly suggest reading my color theory post (see here) for a background on how colors work together if it’s not something you’re familiar with. You won’t regret it 😉

Picking The Right Paint Finish for Every Room in Your Home

Paint is one of the most affordable ways to express yourself in your home. I love painting… to the point that people find it strange. I find it relaxing and love seeing a space change with a few hours of work and less than a hundred dollars (like, significantly less haha). My dad taught me how to paint, and he’s a jack-of-all-trades. Maybe I like painting so much because he taught me how to cut in a room without having to tape off a wall (I mean… does anyone really enjoy prep work?)

But today’s post isn’t about how to paint. Today we’re talking about the step before you even paint–when you’re standing at the paint counter looking deep into the soul of the 18 year old behind the counter asking you what finish paint do you want.

Skreeeeeech. Paint finish? I just spent the last 3 weeks committing to a paint color, now you’re telling me there are finishes?

Don’t worry, it’s not as scary as it sounds. And it won’t take 3 weeks to commit to a finish. I’m not a paint pro, but after painting every room in my home, and painting rooms at quite a few other houses (plus my dad’s infinite wisdom in my ear 😉 ) I’m here to help you navigate the paint aisle so you can go from terror to purchase!

My Paint Brand Preference

I like Sherwin Williams paint. I love their colors and the numerous options they have for paint applications. However, if you don’t have a good ol’ SW nearby, don’t stress. Most paint brands have the same/similar finishes. (Side tip, most companies can color match any other companies paint colors. If it’s not 100% identical, it’s reallyyyyyy close.) I’ll try to make this cover 95% of the bases. We can’t all swing home runs all the time 😉 Did I get that reference right? Anyway…

Picking Paint Finish by Room/Application

Can I use the same finish paint on all the walls and trim in my house? Sure. Should you… that’s a different story. I’ll give you my general rule of thumb, but you do you at the end of the day. Important note, there are 3 main items you are painting in these rooms:

Walls, Ceiling, Trim. Ok ya, this applies to any room so I won’t keep reminding you of these 3 things for every “room” we cover 😉 What can I say except you’re welcome?

Main Living Areas

What do I mean by this. Quick rundown: a) Family/Living Rooms; b) Den; c) Kitchen; d) Playroom; e) Office; f) Bedroom.

Walls

Alright, walls. You probably have the most of these, unless you’re in a strange wall-less but ceiling and trimmed out room. Congrats, you have a wild home. For main living areas you’re looking for these finishes:

  • Flat/Matte
  • Eg-Shel/Eggshell/Low Luster/Lo-Lustre
  • Satin

These finishes go from less shine to slight shine as you move from flat through to satin. Flat paint can be the least forgiving, but you’ll have no shine. My main living areas in my home are painted flat. In my parents house, we picked an eggshell finish. The upside of eggshell and basically any paint that isn’t flat is that it can be easier to clean. I have dark walls and take a wet cloth to my walls to wipe them down, and I don’t have issues… maybe it’s that Sherwin Williams quality promise 🙂

Ceiling

  • Flat

Do It, go flat. Trust me. Also, if you want white ceilings, pick the whitest color the brand has. In my house, we went with ‘Ceiling Bright White’. It’s pretty but doesn’t draw your eye up, which is what any plain ol’ painted ceiling should do in my opinion.

*Disclaimer, if you are doing a ceiling treatment, you might want a different finish. I’m talking about PLAIN OL’ CEILINGS ❤

Trim/Doors

  • Satin
  • Semi-Gloss (the best choice, IMO)

My personal vote goes to semi-gloss. It’s easy to clean, but isn’t blindingly shiny. It’s a nice appearance for the detailed pieces of the room, while differentiating between your walls.

Bathrooms

Bathrooms have moisture. (Yes thank you Cassidy for that infinitely wise piece of information. You have forever changed my world). Bathrooms that are poorly vented, don’t have fans, or where you don’t keep your window open can get weird water runnies on your walls (wipe those off, please. For the love of your sheetrock and just cleanliness). Because of this, you want to take your paint finishes into consideration differently here.

Walls

You’re best bet for bathroom walls is:

  • Eg-Shel/Eggshell/Low Luster/Lo-Lustre
  • Satin (my personal preference)

Satin is more durable than eggshell, and it’s velvet-like finish will work perfectly for your moisture heavy bathroom. You’ll be able to wipe your walls down without creating weird sheens in the paint.

Ceiling

Ceilings are another space to choose between:

  • Eg-Shel/Eggshell/Low Luster/Lo-Lustre
  • Satin

I like eggshell, because I like the less shine look (notice how I picked flat for regular living areas, I don’t like shiny ceilings), but satin won’t steer you wrong.

Trim/Doors

For bathroom trim, you’ve got:

  • Satin
  • Semi-Gloss (the best choice, IMO)

Just like your regular living areas, I still vote semi-gloss. It’s easy to clean, you can wipe off hair (or dog fur in my case regularly) and it cleans up nicely which dust can collect quickly from all that shower moisture.

Summary

When in doubt, ask. I still check with my Sherwin Williams pals at my local store when I’m painting something different if the finish I’m thinking of makes sense. They’re super nice, and you can always ultimately pick what you want. You’re the captain now!

Paint finishes can come down to preference. You might have read this and went “ew Cassidy, I ALWAYS paint my trim in gloss”. To you I say, you go Glen Coco! You might be doing a board and batten wall treatment and want to paint all of that in a semi-gloss to go along with your trim. Or you’re painting a dark moody wall, and you want the wall and the trim to be the same color with the same flat finish. This is a baseline guide, but play with finishes as you try new things.

Like I said, paint is one of the cheapest ways to quickly redo a room (well… maybe not cheapest if you are hiring out). But now that you know which finish to use, pick out a color, grab a brush and roller, and bust out a wall. You might just love what you try 🙂

If you think this guide is missing something, let me know in the comments. And speaking of comments… I’d like to know if you think a post on how to a paint a room would help. I’ll give you some of my dad’s best kept secrets 😉